Little Hong Kong is what they used to call Sandakan. If you have been to Hong Kong, you will find the cramped appartments, the food and the dialects on the streets are somewhat familiar.
The reason behind this uncanny resemblance dates back to 1879 when the British North Borneo Company (BNBC) wanted to develope Sandakan into a prosperous commercial and trading centre. The British used its colonial connections to encourage migration from Hong Kong for development. As it is with any migration, some will return and some decided to settle for good.
Sandakan is the second largest city after Kota Kinabalu (KK) and preceded KK as the capital of Sabah which was then known as British North Borneo. After the shift of capital to KK, Sandakan's glory as Little Hong Kong dimmed. Its people now aspire to rerive the city to its heydays. Meanwhile, the city of Sandakan still hold many inheritance that are worth visiting.
This is a compilation of where to go and attractions in Sandakan. At the end also, check out recommended hotels that is strategically placed in the centre of it all.
1.
Sandakan Central Market
2.
Sandakan Harbour Square
3.
Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple
4.
Night Market Bandar Kim Fung
5.
Muzium Warisan Sandakan
6.
William Pryer Monument
7.
English Tea House
8.
Agnes Keith House
9.
St Michael's and All Angels Church
10.
Sandakan Memorial Park
11.
Masjid Jamik
12.
Kun Yam Temple
13.
Sam Sing Kung Temple
14.
Malaysia Fountain
15.
100 Steps
16.
Pasar Bundle
17.
Bai Lin Rooftop Bar
18.
Where to stay in the city?
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| Elopura is the old name for Sandakan |
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| Little Hong Kong |
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| Follow the Heritage trail for the tale of Sandakan |
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| Jejak Warisan attractions |
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| A little narration always makes history more interesting. Sign up for the free walking tour |
1. Sandakan Central Market (Pasar Umum Sandakan)
The best way to have an insight of the lives of the locals is to visit its market. Genuine and unvarnished, it is the best place to discover the food, the culture and the health of the economy of this city. The Sandakan market consists of the wet market, the dry food market, the clothes section and the food court.
The one that caught my attention would be the wet market as it is the hub of the freshest seafood you can get. Fishermen park their boats, lunging baskets of harvest from the sea. Expect a lot of ice and spot unfamiliar sea creatures. The Sulu Sea must be extra nourishing as well as I caught sight of monstrous seafood which made me regret not buying an icebox to export them home to KL.
At night, the fruit and vegetable market will amaze you with the most beautiful and succulent produce. Even if you are not a resident of the kitchen, you will be able to tell that it is harvest of another kind.
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The market of Sandakan |
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The dry food section which you can catch a myriad of local herbs, spices and cakes.
The amplang and kuih cincin are specialty snacks of Sabah |
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| Interesting finds at good prices too |
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| Herbs and spices of Sandakan |
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| Wet market |
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| Fishermen docking their boats to unload their catch of the day |
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| Find for |
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| Friendly people of Sandakan |
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| The aunty buying seafood. I was allowed to take photos of their catch of the day |
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| Friendly seller showing off how healthy and fresh their tiger prawns are |
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| Love from Sandakan market |
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| Trust me, if you are a seafood lover, you would want to buy everything there |
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Look at the size of the cockles and clams
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| The food stalls on the 3rd floor |
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| Check out local flavours and cooking styles |
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Tapioca cakes called bianban
Traditional Sabahan ethnic food |
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Left: The cerviche of Sabah where fish slices are cooked using the acid of young mango and lime
Right: Seaweed prepared the Sabahan way where it is seasoned in citrusy flavours |
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| Chinese hawker stalls where some pork and beef noodles are very favoured by the locals |
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| Night fruit and vegetable market |
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| This kakak sold me duku langsat for RM4per kg |
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| Every duku langsat is sweet and succulent |
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| Enjoying my fruits while I comb the market |
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| Vendors are up all night |
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| Vegetables piled in the most attractive manner |
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| Blocks of ubi (tapioca) |
2. Sandakan Harbour Square
The Sandakan Harbour Square is just outside Harbour Mall Sandakan. Take a pic at the 'I 💗 Sandakan' sign for memory-sake and stroll along the sea while the breeze blows.
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| At the Sandakan Harbour Square, by the sea |
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| Lots of stalls along the sea to cater to fun strolls when the sun dials down |
3. Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple
Whether you are a devotee or not, Puu Jih Shih makes your visit worthwhile. The largest temple in town offers an undeterred view of Sandakan Bay. The gilded structure is also a sight to admire.
4. Night Market, Bandar Kim Fung
Although this appears as any other
pasar malams (night market) for us Malaysians, the night market is a good way to pick up local specialties. I bought
amplang,
kuih cincin and tried the
tarap there. The night market at Bandar Kim Fung happens every Saturday afternoon till evening.
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| Local snacks. Top left is kuih cincin and right is amplang |
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| Tarap |
5. Muzium Warisan Sandakan, Heritage Trail
This place might look like it has nothing to offer but visit it anyway. Marvel at the posters depicting the adventures of Martin and Osa Johnson, a pair of American travellers who first documented the wild life of Kinabatangan on film. They brought an orangutan which became the inspiration of the movie King Kong in New York.
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| They brough orangutan called Bujang home to United States |
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| The first fridge in Sandakan |
6. William Pryer Monument, Heritage Trail
Just outside the Wisma Warisan, there are a few erection of monuments. One of which is of the founder of Sandakan. William B Pryer. The North Borneo Charted Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946 and Sandakan was officially pronounced the capital of British North Borneo in 1884.
7. The English Tea House, near Heritage Trail
If you wonder how the British had their afternoon tea in Sandakan, drop by the English Tea House. Carpeted with velvety grass and adorned with classic English furniture, it is indeed an inviting place for some good scones.
8. Agnes Keith House, Heritage Trail
This house is rebuilt to its original form after war and is conserved by the Sabah Museum. It is almost similar to the original house which was destroyed. American author Agnes Newton Keith lived here with her husband and son from 1934-1942. It was here where she wrote the famous book 'The Land Below The Wind' which was published in 1939.
Her second book 'Three Came Home' was about her war experience in captivity with her infant son that established her as an acclaimed writer. The book was turned into a Hollywood movie in 1950 and parts of the movie were shot in Sandakan. She wrote 'White Men Return' at the time she and her husband returned to Sandakan following the war to serve under the British government that took over the Charted company. The Keiths left North Borneo in 1952 and never returned. She died in 1982 but her legacy is forever remembered in Sandakan.
9. St Michael's and All Angels Church, Heritage Trail
The St. Michael's Church is the first stone building erected in Sandakan. The stones are said to be from Buli Sim-Sim and delivered by prison labour. Each stone was laid purely by human labour. The bodies of some of the Death March participants are beneath the church in hopes that they rest in peace.
Nearby is the first school in Sandakan. Started by St Mary.
10. Sandakan Memorial Park
Sandakan Memorial Park is approximately 20 min by car away from the Heritage Trail but it involves commemorating those who died in the Death March just like St. Micheal Church. This park displays the remnants of machinery and structure used in the war. Take a walk in the peaceful park and you will reach a museum which documents horrific stories of war and the Death March.
The serene park is built and maintained by the Australian government and now frequented by joggers and used to backdrop wedding shots.
11. Masjid Jamik, Heritage Trail
Masjid Jamik is the beginning of muslim propagation in Sandakan which is staunch in Christianity. The mosque is over a decade old and the oldest mosque in Sandakan. It is situated just beside Hotel Sandakan.
12. Kun Yam Temple, Heritage Trail
The Goddess of Mercy Chinese Temply is hidden from the main road and located at mid-slope. It may appear a little quaint and quiet. The old structure standing since 1889 holds a mysterious appeal.
13. Sam Sing Kung Temple, Heritage Trail
This temple is built as a place of worship for the Chinese from Guangdong Province which included the Hakkas, Cantonese, Teochews and Hainanese. Built in 1887, this institution is a place for historical artifacts and plaques which contain stories of early Sandakan. One of the note-worthy articats is the broze bell presented by the first Kapitan Cina, Fung Ming Shan. Coincidently, the Chinese words on the bell was 'Xian Da Gang' which means harbor where fairies alight.
14. Malaysia Fountain, Heritage Trail
Sabah became part of Malaysia in 1963. To commemorate that, the Malaysia Fountain was built. Nearby, the Harissons building is a structure you cannot miss. It is one of the oldest British origin companies.
15. 100 Steps, Heritage Trail
Although named 100 Steps, it is called Tangga Seribu (1000 Steps) in Malay. Lost in translation?
It is believed to be the consulate buidling of the pre-war Chinese government. Take a few steps and see if you can imagine the days of old.
16. Pasar Bundle, near Heritage Trail
Pasar Bundle is a Malay slang for flea market where second hand items are resold. Be overwhelmed at the vast market for second hand items. There are also hawker stalls selling snacks.
17. Bai Lin Rooftop Bar, near Heritage Trail
Awe at the Sandakan skyline at the Bai Lin Rooftop Bar with a drink of your choice. It is situated at Nak Hotel. This place offers 360 deg view of both the buildings and the sea of the city. As I visited the place in the morning, I can only imagine the spectacle of lights happening at night.
18. Where to stay in the city?
Sandakan Hotel (next to Masjid Jamik) and Sandakan Styles Hotel (at Sandakan Harbour Square) are smack in the middle of the city. Their strategic location will do you a great favour when visiting all the attractions mentioned above.
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| Hotel Sandakan |
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| Hotel Sandakan lobby |
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| Comfy and clean at Hotel Sandakan |
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| Cafe for breakfast at Hotel Sandakan |
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| Breakfast at Hotel Sandakan |
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