Sunday, September 29, 2019

I Left My Heart in Sabah

I left my heart in Sabah. As I ate amplang that I bought from the night market in Bandar Kim Fung, I reminisce the beautiful smiles of the people of Sabah. The warmth and friendliness I experienced in Borneo is an attraction itself that people should notice. The Borneo part of Malaysia gives the country another dimension that is different from the Peninsular. So much so that even Peninsular Malaysians like yours truely find foreign. 

Having travelled quite a bit across the world, I find that Southeast Asians are still one of the most welcoming people you can find in the world. And within Southeast Asia, Malaysian hospitality is one of the best. With qualities of individualism being more popular, it is not easy photographing people for my blog or request for exceptions and special arrangements in Western countries. The right to privacy is spat right at your face. Even belongings and pets are protected. This attitude is creeping into Kuala Lumpur and other major cities in Asia.

Sabahans on the other hand, are not armed with such aloofness. Instead of questioning you if you are sharing your drink, Sabahans will actually fetch you another empty cup. Instead of turning down a request to be photographed, Sabahans will actually smile for you.

Such vulnerability is our asset. Hopefully we are not taken advantage of our warmth.

Leaving Sabah with a heavy heart
The fishermen actually told his sons to smile for my camera
Heartwarming
Friendliness at the Sandakan Food Fest. 
This market vendor poses for me without charge or posing an obligation to buy from him
The vegetable seller just lets me 
This lady gave me a sample of her tuak and smiled as I walk away without buying.
I returned later to buy a cup because of her sincere smile. 
She was actually honoured that I took a pic of her in action
Gary, always so humble and accomodating
Till next time Sabah!



Saturday, September 28, 2019

San Da Gen Kopitiam in Sandakan, Sabah

In every city, there will be a coffee shop that stood the test of time and makes a comeback because of its vintage appeal. In Sandakan, it is San Da Gen Kopitiam which combines the best of the classic and the contemporary.

Stepping in the cafe, I sensed a unique character from the tessellated floor and walls. At the corner, the olden trishaw, cushion cover and posters imbued a nostalgic feeling while the white metal racks and lighting gave it a whiff of modernity. It was if a the owner let his grandchildren play with his old-fashioned shop.

Looking at the food menu, new dish creations were slotted between the locals' all time favourites.

Vintage setting in San Da Gen Kopitiam
Located at ground floor of Nak Hotel
The crowd enjoying their meals at the kopitiam
UFO Tart RM2.50
The popular Sabah UFO tart is believed to originate from Sandakan. It is a sweet vanila based cake with a dollop of egg custard that is circled with white soft meringue. UFO tarts are sold all over Sabah but I must say that San Da Gen sets the standard of a good tart. Sip unsweetened coffee or tea while having this sweet cake to balance those glucose.

Savour them with plain coffee or tea
Cincau that has been the people's most popular thirst quencher for 3 generations RM7.90
San Da Gen's cincau has been the thirst quencher of the town for 3 generations. Cincau is topped with shaved ice which is soaked in evaporated milk which gives the cooling drink an indulging creamy texture. 

Beside the condiments, there is always a cup of evaporated milk beside for you to add to your beverage
Salted egg lava french toast RM11.90
Toasted to golden brown, the toast is savoury with butter and sweet with a drizzle of syrup. Inside, you can expect a flow of salted egg yolk lava, a decadence that you cannot reject.

When salted egg cream oozes out 
Durian cream puff RM10 and Avocado cream puff RM9
Their cream puffs are a pleasure to have. The puffs are engorged with whimsically fluffy cream that wont leave you not licking your lips. Cream is not too sweet. Having said that, it would be more enjoyable if the durian and avocado flavours are more distinct. 

Durian puff dissected
Creamy and not too sweet
Which is your favourite tin biscuit?
Menu of San Da Gen

Where contemporary and classic come together
San Da Gen Kopitiam
Lebuh Dua, Pusat Bandar Sandakan, 90000 Sandakan, Sabah

Opening hours: Everyday 8am–5pm

Phone: 089-238 988


The Sabah Series
Sandakan Food and Agriculture Fest 2019 in Sandakan, Sabah
Tabin Wildlife Reserve and Resort in Lahad Datu, Sabah
Myne Resort by the Kinabatangan River in Sandakan, Sabah
Orang Utan Rehabilitation and Sun Bear Conservation Centres in Sepilok, Sabah
Sepilok Nature Resort in Sandakan, Sabah
Where to Go and Attractions in Sandakan Town, Sabah
Seafood at Restoran Pasir Putih Baru in Sandakan, Sabah
San Da Gen Kopitiam in Sandakan, Sabah
I Left My Heart in Sabah


Search for these hashtags to see more of the event on social media:
#VisitMalaysia2020 #VM2020 #MalaysiaTrulyAsia #CutiCutiMalaysia
#SyiokOSabah #SabahOKbah #visitsandakan #makansandakan
#experiencesandakan
#theWILD #theSAVOURY #theSTORIES #sandakanfoodfest #foodieSandakan
#TourismMalaysia #MalaysianHospitality #maswingmates


Seafood at Restoran Pasir Putih Baru in Sandakan, Sabah

There is nothing much you can do with it when you have fresh seafood. Employing the simplest cooking methods like steaming and baking will be best. The ocean have done the seasoning and all we have to do is let the natural flavours exude from those shells and scales. Being at the edge of the Sulu Sea, Sandakan boasts seafood of premium quality. You'd be missing out if you don't have your hands on them when you are visiting this part of Malaysia.

One of the promising restaurants is Restoran Pasir Putih Baru. With fish tanks in sight upon entrance into the restaurant, you can sense that this eatery is serious with their seafood. This restaurant serves no pork and is muslim friendly.

Who else likes roe in the shell crab
Seafood centre
Sandakan is famous for their fresh seafood
Pricing of food
Lobster Noodle
What better way to serve a plate of noodles than with a whole lobster. This grand platter tastes as regal as it looks. With fried egg noodles (sang mee) beneath chunky lobster meat, gravy thickened from superior soup is poured above it. The noodles is allowed to soak up the gravy and soften to the perfect bite. Combination of the noodle, gravy and lobster is very engaging and will have you licking off the plate.

Lobster noodle with chunks of lobster meat
Enjoying every bit of it
Steamed prawns
Timing is all the seasoning needed for this plate of steamed prawns. The restaurant lets its crunchy flesh do the advocacy for its freshness. I prefer it without dips to enjoy the unadulterated taste of the sea. 

Freshness is apparent with every crunch
Baked crab
Crab is prepared by baking with a rub of salt. I personally felt that salt was not necessary but it did not do much harm. Crabs are crabs are crabs. It kept the people on the table focused while digging for crab meat.

Toothsome at every bite
Squid in dark sauce
Squid is the kind of food that requires some expertise as it can be from undercook to overcook in a short while. The squid meat was springy and served with simple seasoning like dark sauce and oyster sauce. I would return for fried and salted egg version. 

Steamed garoupa in soy sauce
This steamed garoupa is the case where less is more. The big fish is meaty and only needs a touch of soy sauce to reach that blissful taste.
Steamed free range chicken
Fishball soup
Freshness guaranteed


Pusat Makanan Laut Pasir Putih Baru
Jalan Batu Sapi, Batu 2 1/2,
PO Box No. 2251, Sandakan, 90725

Opening Hours
Mon - Sun
10:00 - 23:00

Telephone:
089-612 863

The Sabah Series
Sandakan Food and Agriculture Fest 2019 in Sandakan, Sabah
Tabin Wildlife Reserve and Resort in Lahad Datu, Sabah
Myne Resort by the Kinabatangan River in Sandakan, Sabah
Orang Utan Rehabilitation and Sun Bear Conservation Centres in Sepilok, Sabah
Sepilok Nature Resort in Sandakan, Sabah
Where to Go and Attractions in Sandakan Town, Sabah
Seafood at Restoran Pasir Putih Baru in Sandakan, Sabah
San Da Gen Kopitiam in Sandakan, Sabah
I Left My Heart in Sabah

Search for these hashtags to see more of the event on social media:
#VisitMalaysia2020 #VM2020 #MalaysiaTrulyAsia #CutiCutiMalaysia
#SyiokOSabah #SabahOKbah #visitsandakan #makansandakan
#experiencesandakan
#theWILD #theSAVOURY #theSTORIES #sandakanfoodfest #foodieSandakan
#TourismMalaysia #MalaysianHospitality #maswingmates


Where to Go and Attractions in Sandakan Town, Sabah

Little Hong Kong is what they used to call Sandakan. If you have been to Hong Kong, you will find the cramped appartments, the food and the dialects on the streets are somewhat familiar.

The reason behind this uncanny resemblance dates back to 1879 when the British North Borneo Company (BNBC) wanted to develope Sandakan into a prosperous commercial and trading centre. The British used its colonial connections to encourage migration from Hong Kong for development. As it is with any migration, some will return and some decided to settle for good.

Sandakan is the second largest city after Kota Kinabalu (KK) and preceded KK as the capital of Sabah which was then known as British North Borneo. After the shift of capital to KK, Sandakan's glory as Little Hong Kong dimmed. Its people now aspire to rerive the city to its heydays. Meanwhile, the city of Sandakan still hold many inheritance that are worth visiting.

This is a compilation of where to go and attractions in Sandakan. At the end also, check out recommended hotels that is strategically placed in the centre of it all.

1. Sandakan Central Market
2. Sandakan Harbour Square
3. Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple
4. Night Market Bandar Kim Fung
5. Muzium Warisan Sandakan
6. William Pryer Monument
7. English Tea House
8. Agnes Keith House
9. St Michael's and All Angels Church
10. Sandakan Memorial Park
11. Masjid Jamik
12. Kun Yam Temple
13. Sam Sing Kung Temple
14. Malaysia Fountain
15. 100 Steps
16. Pasar Bundle
17. Bai Lin Rooftop Bar
18. Where to stay in the city?

Elopura is the old name for Sandakan

Little Hong Kong
Follow the Heritage trail for the tale of Sandakan
Jejak Warisan attractions
A little narration always makes history more interesting. Sign up for the free walking tour


1. Sandakan Central Market (Pasar Umum Sandakan) 

The best way to have an insight of the lives of the locals is to visit its market. Genuine and unvarnished, it is the best place to discover the food, the culture and the health of the economy of this city. The Sandakan market consists of the wet market, the dry food market, the clothes section and the food court.

The one that caught my attention would be the wet market as it is the hub of the freshest seafood you can get. Fishermen park their boats, lunging baskets of harvest from the sea. Expect a lot of ice and spot unfamiliar sea creatures. The Sulu Sea must be extra nourishing as well as I caught sight of monstrous seafood which made me regret not buying an icebox to export them home to KL.

At night, the fruit and vegetable market will amaze you with the most beautiful and succulent produce. Even if you are not a resident of the kitchen, you will be able to tell that it is harvest of another kind.


The market of Sandakan
The dry food section which you can catch a myriad of local herbs, spices and cakes.
The amplang and kuih cincin are specialty snacks of Sabah
Interesting finds at good prices too


Herbs and spices of Sandakan
Wet market
Fishermen docking their boats to unload their catch of the day
Find for 
Friendly people of Sandakan
The aunty buying seafood. I was allowed to take photos of their catch of the day
Friendly seller showing off how healthy and fresh their tiger prawns are
Love from Sandakan market
Trust me, if you are a seafood lover, you would want to buy everything there
Look at the size of the cockles and clams
The food stalls on the 3rd floor
Check out local flavours and cooking styles
Tapioca cakes called bianban
Traditional Sabahan ethnic food
Left: The cerviche of Sabah where fish slices are cooked using the acid of young mango and lime
Right: Seaweed prepared the Sabahan way where it is seasoned in citrusy flavours
Chinese hawker stalls where some pork and beef noodles are very favoured by the locals
Night fruit and vegetable market
This kakak sold me duku langsat for RM4per kg
Every duku langsat is sweet and succulent
Enjoying my fruits while I comb the market
Vendors are up all night 
Vegetables piled in the most attractive manner
Blocks of ubi (tapioca)


2. Sandakan Harbour Square

The Sandakan Harbour Square is just outside Harbour Mall Sandakan. Take a pic at the 'I 💗 Sandakan' sign for memory-sake and stroll along the sea while the breeze blows.

At the Sandakan Harbour Square, by the sea
Lots of stalls along the sea to cater to fun strolls when the sun dials down


3. Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple

Whether you are a devotee or not, Puu Jih Shih makes your visit worthwhile. The largest temple in town offers an undeterred view of Sandakan Bay. The gilded structure is also a sight to admire.







4. Night Market, Bandar Kim Fung

Although this appears as any other pasar malams (night market) for us Malaysians, the night market is a good way to pick up local specialties. I bought amplang, kuih cincin and tried the tarap there. The night market at Bandar Kim Fung happens every Saturday afternoon till evening.


Local snacks. Top left is kuih cincin and right is amplang

Tarap


5. Muzium Warisan Sandakan, Heritage Trail

This place might look like it has nothing to offer but visit it anyway. Marvel at the posters depicting the adventures of Martin and Osa Johnson, a pair of American travellers who first documented the wild life of Kinabatangan on film. They brought an orangutan which became the inspiration of the movie King Kong in New York.



They brough orangutan called Bujang home to United States
The first fridge in Sandakan


6. William Pryer Monument, Heritage Trail

Just outside the Wisma Warisan, there are a few erection of monuments. One of which is of the founder of Sandakan. William B Pryer. The North Borneo Charted Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946 and Sandakan was officially pronounced the capital of British North Borneo in 1884.





7. The English Tea House, near Heritage Trail

If you wonder how the British had their afternoon tea in Sandakan, drop by the English Tea House. Carpeted with velvety grass and adorned with classic English furniture, it is indeed an inviting place for some good scones.






8. Agnes Keith House, Heritage Trail

This house is rebuilt to its original form after war and is conserved by the Sabah Museum. It is almost similar to the original house which was destroyed. American author Agnes Newton Keith lived here with her husband and son from 1934-1942. It was here where she wrote the famous book 'The Land Below The Wind' which was published in 1939.

Her second book 'Three Came Home' was about her war experience in captivity with her infant son that established her as an acclaimed writer. The book was turned into a Hollywood movie in 1950 and parts of the movie were shot in Sandakan. She wrote 'White Men Return' at the time she and her husband returned to Sandakan following the war to serve under the British government that took over the Charted company. The Keiths left North Borneo in 1952 and never returned. She died in 1982 but her legacy is forever remembered in Sandakan.





9. St Michael's and All Angels Church, Heritage Trail

The St. Michael's Church is the first stone building erected in Sandakan. The stones are said to be from Buli Sim-Sim and delivered by prison labour. Each stone was laid purely by human labour. The bodies of some of the Death March participants are beneath the church in hopes that they rest in peace. 

Nearby is the first school in Sandakan. Started by St Mary. 





10. Sandakan Memorial Park

Sandakan Memorial Park is approximately 20 min by car away from the Heritage Trail but it involves commemorating those who died in the Death March just like St. Micheal Church. This park displays the remnants of machinery and structure used in the war. Take a walk in the peaceful park and you will reach a museum which documents horrific stories of war and the Death March.

The serene park is built and maintained by the Australian government and now frequented by joggers and used to backdrop wedding shots.








11. Masjid Jamik, Heritage Trail

Masjid Jamik is the beginning of muslim propagation in Sandakan which is staunch in Christianity. The mosque is over a decade old and the oldest mosque in Sandakan. It is situated just beside Hotel Sandakan.





12. Kun Yam Temple, Heritage Trail

The Goddess of Mercy Chinese Temply is hidden from the main road and located at mid-slope. It may appear a little quaint and quiet. The old structure standing since 1889 holds a mysterious appeal.





13. Sam Sing Kung Temple, Heritage Trail

This temple is built as a place of worship for the Chinese from Guangdong Province which included the Hakkas, Cantonese, Teochews and Hainanese. Built in 1887, this institution is a place for historical artifacts and plaques which contain stories of early Sandakan. One of the note-worthy  articats is the broze bell presented by the first Kapitan Cina, Fung Ming Shan. Coincidently, the Chinese words on the bell was 'Xian Da Gang' which means harbor where fairies alight.



14. Malaysia Fountain, Heritage Trail

Sabah became part of Malaysia in 1963. To commemorate that, the Malaysia Fountain was built. Nearby, the Harissons building is a structure you cannot miss. It is one of the oldest British origin companies.




15. 100 Steps, Heritage Trail

Although named 100 Steps, it is called Tangga Seribu (1000 Steps) in Malay. Lost in translation?
It is believed to be the consulate buidling of the pre-war Chinese government. Take a few steps and see if you can imagine the days of old.




16. Pasar Bundle, near Heritage Trail

Pasar Bundle is a Malay slang for flea market where second hand items are resold. Be overwhelmed at the vast market for second hand items. There are also hawker stalls selling snacks.





17. Bai Lin Rooftop Bar, near Heritage Trail

Awe at the Sandakan skyline at the Bai Lin Rooftop Bar with a drink of your choice. It is situated at Nak Hotel. This place offers 360 deg view of both the buildings and the sea of the city. As I visited the place in the morning, I can only imagine the spectacle of lights happening at night.





18. Where to stay in the city?

Sandakan Hotel (next to Masjid Jamik) and Sandakan Styles Hotel (at Sandakan Harbour Square) are smack in the middle of the city. Their strategic location will do you a great favour when visiting all the attractions mentioned above.

Hotel Sandakan
Hotel Sandakan lobby
Comfy and clean at Hotel Sandakan
Cafe for breakfast at Hotel Sandakan
Breakfast at Hotel Sandakan
#VisitMalaysia2020 #VM2020 #MalaysiaTrulyAsia #CutiCutiMalaysia
#SyiokOSabah #SabahOKbah #visitsandakan #makansandakan
#experiencesandakan
#theWILD #theSAVOURY #theSTORIES #sandakanfoodfest #foodieSandakan
#TourismMalaysia #MalaysianHospitality #maswingmates